Needles are probably the most overlooked problem solving routine there is in the industry. 

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What is a "good" sewing machine needle?

• A good needle should be strong and should not break prematurely

• The needle point has to be strong enough and well protected against damage and wear

• The needle has to be flexible enough to return to a straight position after deflection

• The needle should not damage the fabric

• The needle has to meet the defined specifications

• The needle should protect the thread during stitching and should form a perfect loop in order to avoid skipped stitches

 

When should the operator replace the sewing machine needle?

In case there are no other guidelines by the purchaser, it is recommended:

• As soon as the point gets blunt or is worn out (finger test)

• When skipped stitches occur (→ needle is bent)

• On a regular basis, e.g. right before the beginning of the shift

• Needle that is worn out at the point area

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Why should a sewing needle have a high stability?

• To prevent skipped stitches

• For a uniform and clean seam appearance

• For a longer needle life and higher productivity

 

Why should the penetration force of a needle be low?

• The lower the penetration force, the less material damage is caused

• The machine is strained in the minimum way, i.e. high protection of the machine

• A low penetration force increases the needle life

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Sewing problems and their solutions

What are the main causes of needle breakage?

• Poor needle quality

• Wrong needle size (too small) → insufficient needle stability

• Wrong needle system, not fitting into the machine

• The needle is not properly inserted into the machine

• Damaged or blunt needle point

• Wrong looper adjustment

• Too high thread tension

• Incorrectly adjusted height of the needle bar

• The operator pulls the fabric while feeding

• Too high machine speed (especially when sewing over cross seams)

• The needle thread is not properly unwinding from the cone

 

What are the main reasons for fabric damage during the sewing process?

• Poor or insufficient finishing of the material

• Too big needle size (the needle should always be as thin as possible)

• Wrong point style

• Damaged needle point

• Damaged needle surface (by wear and tear)

• Thermal damages due to needle heating

• The needle hole in the throat plate does not fit the needle size

• Damaged throat plate

• Too high sewing speed

 

What causes thread breakage?

• Too high or too low sewing thread tension

• Poor thread quality

• Incorrectly threaded thread

• The needle thread is not properly unwinding from the cone

• The machine is not optimally adjusted

• Too small needle size in comparison to the sewing thread

• The needle is inserted in the wrong way

• Bent or damaged needle (e.g. sharp-edged eye)

• Excessive needle heating

• The thread is clogged with melted material residues

• Parts of the machine are damaged (thread guiding elements, hook/looper)

• Wrong needle system

• Insufficiently lubricated looper/hook

 

What is a skipped stitch and how is it caused?

A skipped stitch occurs when the loop of the needle thread is not picked up by the point of the looper/hook.

Possible reasons:

• Too high or too low sewing thread tension

• Improperly adjusted or damaged hook/looper

• Other parts of the machine are not properly adjusted

• The needle is inserted in the wrong way

• Bent or damaged needle

• Too small needle size in comparison to the sewing thread

• Insufficient needle stability leading to needle deflection

• Too big needle hole in the throat plate in comparison to the needle size

• Needle thread snarling in front of the tension discs

• The fabric "flags" due to insufficient pressure from the presser foot on the fabric

• Too high sewing thread elongation

 

What are the most suitable methods to reduce needle heating?

• Needle cooling by compressed air

• Reduction of the sewing speed

• Use of a smaller needle size (if possible)

• Use of another needle point

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Titan Sewing Machines have a proud partnership with both Groz-Beckert and Organ sewing machine needles.